Sunday, May 18, 2014

Free pattern: CSM sock for 72 cylinder

This is actually based on this pattern, but I found mine came out way too long.

Before starting this sock, I adjusted my CSM so it was as tight as it would knit without tucking or dropping stitches. Socks last longer if they are knitted firmly! So experiment with your machine. My machine (an Imperia) has the main cylinder at 6 and the ribber at 3.

Suggested yarns: Opal Sock, Regia Sock, King Cole Zigzag
  1. Cast on every needle with the main cylinder using a set-up bonnet or your preferred set up method, and knit a few rows in waste yarn, ensuring your knitting is weighted
  2. Engage the ribber and transfer every other needle to the ribber, knit a few more rows
  3. Stop the CSM at the right hand hash mark
  4. Tie on the main yarn, pull it through the mast and down through the yarn carrier.
  5. Holding the knot, carefully crank forward about a quarter turn (you can use the heel spring here for a tighter selvedge if required)
  6. Using a latch hook, pull the loop of the yarn join through the gap between the cylinder and ribber
  7. Slowly complete one round with the ribber, stopping just before the ribber needle at 3 o'clock moves out. 
  8. Put the ribber out of work (slip mode) and crank two rows, stopping just before 3 o'clock as before
  9. Set the row counter to zero, remove the heel spring if you used it, put the ribber back into work so that the ribbing recommences at 3 o'clock. 
  10. Knit the required amount of ribbing (I knit 20)
  11. Transfer all the ribber stitches back to the main cylinder and knit the ankle rounds (I knit 30)
  12. Stop with the yarn carrier in the front, and use the half-circle tool to pull all the rear needles between the two hash marks all the way up (make sure your cylinder spring has been replaced before attempting this!)
  13. Add the heel spring and crank to the right.
  14. Pull up two needles on the right and crank to the left
  15. Pull up two needles on the left and crank to the right
  16. Pull up one needle on the right and crank to the left
  17. Pull up one needle on the left and crank to the right
  18. Repeat 16 and 17 until there are only 14 needles left in work (you will have to pull down on the heel with your free hand whilst short-rowing)
  19. Insert the heel hook about 4 rows from the live stitches and weight it
  20. Push the needle nearest the yarn carrier back into work and hold the latch open with your finger tip, crank around
  21. Repeat row 20 until you have reached the last of the pair of needles that were wrapped together in (14)
  22. Return the rest of the needles to work, making sure all latches are open. Remove the heel spring. 
  23. Crank to the right hand hash mark and set the row counter to zero
  24. Crank number of rows required for the foot. I do 48 for a medium women's sock (UK size 7) and 52 for a medium man's sock (UK size 9)
  25. Repeat steps 12-21, but this time short-row back out so that ALL needles to the front of the hash marks have been knitted. Stop at the right hash mark.
  26. Break yarn and tie on waste yarn, pulling it through the yarn carrier.
  27. Knit a few rounds of waste yarn. 
Repeat the process from step 2 for the second sock. 


Unknown said...

Should I put the ribber back into work between step 8 and 9? I'm still trying to figure out how the ribber works.

steel breeze said...

Yes - I've edited the blog post to make it clearer! :) Well spotted, that was a bit ambiguous.