Free pattern: machine knit roses

We're doing an Alice in Wonderland themed yarn bomb in town this year, and I was sent a link to this video for making roses. Alas I have no intention of acquiring this machine, which takes DK yarn, but I've worked out how to make this pattern on a standard gauge knitting machine as follows:

Yarn: 4ply

Cast on 6 stitches over needles 6-1 left, K10 rows at the tension most suitable for this yarn (I used T7)
*Increase one stitch on the same side as the yarn tail, K10 rows. Rep from * until you have 18 stitches in work. Knit 9 rows, knit a 10th row at a loose tension and latch tool cast off. Leave a long tail for sewing up and break the yarn. Use the long tail to roughly gather up the increased edge, pull up and stitch the work into a spiral rose.

Tips: 

• If you increase by moving the end stitch out one, and pull the empty needle into work, it makes  holes useful for sewing up. 
• I also tried making extra holes every 5th row (when there's no increase), this makes the centre a bit neater because there are more holes to sew up.
• I also tried knitting this in 1ply in full needle rib on the Passap (so 6 stitches in work on both beds). It makes a more "tulip" shaped rose (see left, first picture) because the fabric doesn't curl. 

Free pattern: Easy crochet Christmas card holder

Well, I looked in several shops online for some sort of reusable Christmas card holder, but drew a blank (and yes, I know I could probably find something on Amazon but well, I have a house full of craft stuff here you know?). 

My mother has a well-used card holder that is basically a length of red ribbon with cardboard "buckles" that she pins into the door between her kitchen-diner and the living room. As cards arrive, you slide the buckles up and down to hold the cards. Great idea. 

But I thought I'd like to have a go at something crafted and reusable, that didn't need to damage more of the house. In previous years we've blue-tacked cards to the back of our living room door, but because our cat is a bit of an idiot when it comes to doors, they end up facing the wall a lot of the time because we have to keep the door open. Ribbon taped to the backs of picture frames, with cards paper-clipped to them, only lasted about 20 minutes before falling down. So I thought something that used the picture hook would be more secure. And so it proved!

I used white acrylic DK yarn, and a 5mm hook. The basic pattern starts with ch 6, work a foundation treble (US double crochet) into the first chain, continue to work foundation trebles until you get the desired length - I found 114 trebles worked for me, but it depends on the size of the picture you're hanging it over and the distance of the picture hook to the top of the picture. For your first attempt, leave the live end unfinished until you have the length you need (and don't forget, this will stretch a bit once it's loaded). When you are happy, weave in both ends. Hang the chain loop over your picture hook, rehang your picture over the top and drape the crochet over the top of the frame. I used a bent paperclip (the same ones we use to hang the Christmas baubles) to hang a bauble on the bottom. Then you can mount your Christmas cards using a paperclip on the back face - it's better to work from the bottom up so you can have a bit of overlap. 

I'll come back and add a photo when I unload my camera. They look really good, and I can use them again next year! 

Current mood: working

Free pattern: Passap DBJ scarf

I realised I never actually shared the pattern for this. It makes a scarf approximately 23cm by 176cm long. A motor is recommended, otherwise maybe work it in sections to give yourself a break, it's quite the workout! 

Yarn: 2 ends of 3ply or equivalent in two colours
Machine: Passap E6000 or Duomatic

Program your E6000 as follows:

Pattern A: DBJ technique*
Pattern B: Desired stitch design, DBJ technique as before
Pattern C: DBJ technique same as pattern A

DBJ techniques: some time ago, I knitted a big swatch of techniques 180 to 194, an interesting exercise to see how different techniques alter the pattern's proportions and appearance. For this scarf I like tech 180 (birdseye backing) or tech 182, vertically striped backing. You will need the back bed pushers in work for this technique also. I found a plain backing had a tendancy to create holes / pockets in the front design, exactly like the issue with single motif knitting if the motif is not "bound in" with yarn of the same colour, so single colour backing techniques are to be avoided unless the stitch design is an overall random one with no large areas of contrast colour - in other words, don't use tech 181. If you want a larger, more holey scarf, you might also try tech 186, fantasy fairisle, which is N/KX - there's a faint reversible effect with this, but I feel it's overrated myself! 

Tech 180 = BX, both arrows in on back bed / LX (slip) on front bed (BX for Duomatics)
Tech 182 = BX, left arrow in, on back bed / LX (slip) on front bed (BX for Duomatics)

Cast on 2 over 60 sts - this is the tubular K/K or full needle rib cast on, so handle must be down. You should have both end needles on the back bed in work, so 61 needles on the back bed - this is to ensure that the edges are correctly sealed up. When casting on, the first row is ss 2/2, circular rows ss 3/3, final row is ss 5/5

Knit 8 rows pattern A ss5/5
Knit 1600 rows pattern B (first two rows are the background colour, second pair are the contrast colour ie the black squares in the pattern book). So here colour 1 is black, colour 2 is white.  
Knit 7 rows pattern C
Set locks to N/N and ss 8/8 - pulling down on the knitting as you knit this loose row. Don't let go, whilst changing to waste yarn or the other colour and resetting to ss5/5, knit 8 rows of waste yarn then scrap off. I use the latch tool to latch through the last row before unravelling the waste yarn. Weave in the ends and you're done. 

Although you could knit the first and last sections in plain K/K, I find this is thinner and tends to flare out a bit. Knitting sections A and C in self-coloured DBJ maintains the same width and density of the fabric. 

Reversible hat pattern (Natalie Langkilde)

I've knitted many of these hats over the years. Reposting it in a shortened format. Original pattern is here - pattern is for charity or personal use only. Dedicated to Natalie who wrote many patterns for the machine knitting community before her untimely death. The original pattern also includes directions for calculating your own hat. 

Machine: std gauge machine
Size: baby (toddler : adult)

Cast on 120 (135 : 160) sts EON - I use the slip stitch cast on which can be gathered up later
Knit 10 rows at T3
Bring the remaining needles into work and knit to row 62 (72: 88) in fairisle pattern of your choice (T6)
Knit to row 93 (103 : 119) in a single colour to produce the brim
Knit 1 row T10 (turn row)
Knit to row 125 (135 : 151) in a single colour (T6)
Knit to row 177 (197 : 229) in fairisle
Transfer to EON and knit to row 187 ( 207 : 239) at T3
Break yarn, leaving a long length, and thread through live stitches, or start a new hat with a seperating row of ravel cord. 

Gather up both ends, sew side seam, sew the crowns together. 

Free pattern: Passap DBJ hats

Well, I used the overlocker to trim down the two earlier attempts, and knitted myself a third one which worked out really well.

Machine: Passap E6000
Yarn: Oddments of 3ply acrylic

Cast on 2 (Duomatic users: Cast on for knit/knit)

St patt A: 180 which is BX <-- -->/LX - bird's eye jacquard - front bed pushers work a slip stitch pattern, back bed pushers are 1 up, 1 down for slipped background

St patt B: Your dbj pattern, technique 180. Pattern 1161 is roses, 1242 is squiggles, but you can use any pattern you like here. 

Cast on N/N ss 3, two rows CX/CX ss 4, final row N/N ss 5 over 110 sts. I found I got a neater edge by having both end needles in work on the back bed, so technically this is knitted over 111 sts. 

RC000. Knit st patt A in single colour. Knit 48 rows for a 1" brim, or 96 rows for a brim you can fold.

Set machine for st patt B and RC000. Knit 200 rows, changing the colour every 2 rows. On the E6000, the first colour is the background and the second is the motif.

Change to N/N and knit two rows in the background colour, then change to waste yarn and knit a further 10 rows and scrap off, or knit two passes of ravel cord on CX/CX and start another one. Use the latch tool to cast off the last row. 

Finishing - there are two methods here. You can either sew the side and top seams by hand, and then sew the corners to the centre of the top edge (the roses hat on the left). Alternatively, pin the hat so the wrong side is outside, and use a saucer and a marker to trace radiused corners. Use an overlocker to cut and sew the hat. If you knit the longer brim version, it looks neater if you mattress stitch the brim by hand from the wrong side. 

Picture showing sewn crown version

This hat pattern is loosely based on one from the Metbury Bitty book, and I got the idea for cut and sew from this post by Herman Hills Farm - a great way to use up old swatches, please check it out! 

I really love this rose pattern, I don't know why! I would like to have a go at reprogramming it to have  leaves in a third colour. 

Free pattern: Simple Passap Tuck scarf

Many thanks to Israelmeesterkat from Herman Hills Farm for suggesting this technique when I was struggling to knit a blanket. The yarn used is a fine 2ply HB acrylic of unknown origin.

Cast on 2 (K/K) over 60 stitches on the front bed and 61 stitches over the back bed - ensure both end stitches are on the back bed, to get a neater edge. Program stitch pattern - I used 1022, 1026 and 1023, with tech 138 (N/KX), which is a two-row tucking pattern. I realised after taking the first one off and not making a great job of the cast off, that it was just as easy to seperate them with ravel cord and keep on going. I only stopped because my partner came home and it was getting late! I used "woolley" (magnetic) weights to hold the knitting down once it emerged beneath the V beds. 60 stitches makes quite a wide scarf, 40 stitches makes a skinnier one. 

1. N/LX ss 2/2, K 1 row (Duo N/N)
2. CX/LX ss3/3, K 2 rows (Duo CX/CX)
3. N/LX ss4/4, K 1 row (Duo N/N)
4. ss 4.5/4.5, RC000. Optional: you can either knit 10 rows in N/N here for a plain edge, or go straight into your chosen stitch pattern. K to RC600. Adjust the length here for a longer or shorter scarf.
5. Optional: if you started with 10 rows N/N, knit a further 10 rows N/N here. 
6. Transfer all stitches to the front bed (double up on the last needle).
7. Bring the empty back bed needles back into work and knit 1 row N/N.
8. Break main yarn and secure under the mast (lock will be on left). Drop the newly-created back bed loops and return BB needles to out of work.
9. Rethread empty eyelet with ravel cord and knit back to the right.
10. Either scrap off on waste yarn, or cast on again for the next scarf by bringing the BB needles back into work as before and going back to step 1.
11. When complete and off the machine, use the latch tool to crochet the cast off loops through, and remove ravel cord. 

Free pattern: Easy Passap Scarf

This is a stashbuster pattern suitable for 3 or 4ply yarn. I am using it to use up lots of cone ends of yarn that has been hanging around in my stash too long. It's a great pattern if you have a motor, because 800 rows is a lot of work.

Console not required

S/S 2/2 - Cast on 1 (E6000), or set machine for N/N and 1x1 rib and knit 1 row
S/S 3/3, k 2 rows CX/CX
S/S 4/4, K 799 rows N/N
K 1 row S/S 8/8. Scrap off on waste yarn, work latch tool cast off on last live stitches.

For a skinny scarf, cast on over 80 needles. For a wider scarf, cast on over 100 needles.

Free pattern: Easy MK tubular scarf

I came up with a simple method of making a scarf that doesn't require much finishing - I see more of these in my future! Ideal for charity drives.



Yarn: Oddments of 4ply [DK : aran]
Machine: 4.5mm [6.5mm : 9mm]
Tension: MT6 or tension to match yarn.

Cast on 60 [45 : 30] stitches on BOTH beds using waste yarn, total stitches in work 120 [90 : 60]. Knit the zigzag row and hang the ribber comb, set machine for circular and knit a few passes in waste yarn.
Knit two passes with ravel cord. RC000
E-wrap both beds with main yarn - e-wrap the main bed needles anti-clockwise and the ribber needles clockwise.
Knit 1000 [750 : 500] passes or adjust length to suit. Knit the last two passes at maximum tension.
Latch tool cast off in the direction you were knitting. Weave in ends.

In other news, I learnt a good friend passed away after a short battle with the big C last week - I'd meant to write to her to tell her that her cheese scones and lovely cakes had been much missed at the Manor House end-of-year party, and of course I hadn't gotten around to it. Such is my luck; the funeral falls on a day when we're doing a team-building exercise at work and I don't think I can get out of it. :(

Current mood: sad

Free pattern: CSM Adult Tube Sock

This is only a very loose "pattern" as such - feel free to improvise! Short version is below.  These socks are ideal as they have no heel so one size fits all. This is based on MarytheKnit's heelless sock pattern - credit to her for developing this pattern (you will need to be in Ravelry to read that, there's a little history of the sock). Mary's version has a handknit, conical toe to minimise wear on the sock. My version is worked on a 72/36 combo and a short-row toe is also worked on the machine. I didn't think they'd be very comfortable (with all the extra material at the ankle) but they are surprisingly good to wear. If using a variegated yarn it's a good idea to designate which colour toe you prefer when first wearing them, because over time they will wear in one place. 

Long version:

1. Cast on in waste yarn (WY) and get knitting established on your CSM.
2. Still in WY, remove the cylinder spring and transfer to 1x1 rib and knit a few rounds, stopping at the 3 o'clock hash mark.
3. Break WY, tie on main yarn and pull the yarn through the yarn carrier until about 15cm of main yarn (MY) has emerged.
4. Engage heel spring, if using
5. Holding the yarn loop towards the front of the machine in such a way as to ensure all needles knit off, crank slowly to the 12 o'clock position.
6. Using a hook, pull the yarn loop down between the ribber and cylinder so that it is out of the way.
7. Crank around to just before the 3 o'clock mark, and disengage the slip lever (so that the ribber does not knit).
8. Knit two rounds* carefully (you may need to pull down on the knitting to stop it riding up).
9. Re-engage the slip lever, and disengage the heel spring if it is in work. Set row counter to 0.
10. Crank 30 rounds 1x1 rib, stopping at the 9 o'clock mark on the last round.
11. Starting at 3 o'clock, and working in a counterclockwise direction, transfer the setup to 3x1 or 5x1 rib as desired.
12. Crank to R145** in desired rib, stopping at the 9 o'clock mark on the last round.
13. Starting at 3 o'clock, and working in a counterclockwise direction, transfer any remaining ribber stitches to the cylinder and remove the ribber. Replace the cylinder spring.
14. Crank to R150 in stocking stitch (pre-toe) and work your desired toe*** - I tend to do an automatic wrap short row toe.
15. Knit at least 12 rounds in WY and go back to step 2 for the other sock. 

* Selvedge - you need at least one round here to lock the cast on edge - finer yarns you can go up to 4 rounds. 

** Add or subtract more rounds here as desired

*** You can also scrap off here, pulling a large amount of MY between the needles at 3'clock, and handknit the toe later. 

Short version:

30 rounds 1x1 rib
Crank to R145** in 3x1 or 5x1 rib
Crank to R150 in stocking stitch
Work desired toe***, scrap off on WY. 
Repeat for other sock. 

Easy Peasy Poppy Pattern - machine knit

Reproduced with kind permission of Alison L aka Monadelphus on Ravelry. Originally posted on Ravelry.

Pattern below is for a chunky machine:

Needed a very quick and easy make for an upcoming knitting show. Using DK yarns, and 9mm machine, bring into work 20 needles. Make a weaving brush cast-on with black yarn, then k1r. Change to red yarn, starting at either end, bring into H 3rd and ev. foll. 5th needle. Set carriage to hold, and K4rs. Cancel hold, and at largest stitch size, k1r. Break off yarn and make a latch tool cast off. When off machine, pull up black cast-on yarn, use red tail end join into circle. Tidy ends.

Std version (my conversion):

Weaving cast on over 40 needles in black 4ply yarn. K2 rows. Change to red yarn, hold every 10th needle. Set carriage to hold and knit 8 rows. Cancel hold, k1R at largest stitch size. Latch tool cast off and finish as above.

Free pattern: All gauges easy ribbed hat

I already wrote midgauge and chunky versions of this, so figured I should complete the trio and add the standard gauge version.



In the picture, the red - green one in front is standard gauge and the other two are midgauge

Machine: Standard (midgauge : bulky)
MT = 4 or usual rib tension for yarn
Yarn: Oddments of 4ply (DK : aran)

Japanese version

Cast on 156 (108 : 78) stitches in 2x2 rib.
K 1 row, T0/0 hang comb and weights
K 1 row T1/1 circular. RC000
K 140 (96 : 70) rows MT
Transfer to EON on main bed; K 1 row
Break yarn, leaving length 2 x the width of the knitting
Thread through live stitches and take off.
Draw up thread, sew up top and mattress stitch the side seam, reversing this for the last 7 cm
Weave in ends.

Tip: I had trouble with dropped end stitches on the standard one, so use plenty of weight and be prepared to use the 7 hangers as you go.

Passap version (4ply yarn)

Handle up. Arrange 156 needles for 2x2 rib. Rack handle 1.5 turns so needles alternate, either fbfb or bfbf.
ss3.5/3.5, N/N, orange strippers, knit 1 row. Ss4.5/4.5 CX/CX, knit 1 row.
Rack 1.5 turns back to original position. RC000 ss 5.5/5.5
K 140 rows.
Transfer to EON on front bed.
ss6, black strippers, knit 1 row.

Finish as for Japanese version.

Free pattern: Ribbed CSM sock for a 72 cylinder

1. Thread your machine up and get some plain knitting established using waste yarn, enough to ensure it's knitting off correctly and so you can hang weights. I made cast on socks with leftover waste yarn.*
2. Transfer every other needle to the ribber (1x1 rib) - make sure this is also knitting properly. When ready, stop at the 3 o'clock position.
3. Tie on the new yarn, pulling the knot and about 4" of the new yarn through the yarn carrier.
4. Put the heel spring on, and carefully crank one round.
5. Set the ribber to slip, and crank two more rounds
6. Remove the heel spring, put the ribber back into work and set the counter.
7. Knit 30 rounds 1x1 rib
8. Working from the 3 o'clock position, transfer every other ribber needle to the cylinder (3x1 rib)
9. Knit to RC060.
10. Transfer all the ribber needles in the front section of the cylinder (ie from 9 o'clock to 3 o'clock anti-clockwise ) to the cylinder
11. Crank 5 rounds for the pre-heel. As you commence the last round, remove the ribber driving pin and pull all the needles from 9 o'clock to 3 o'clock, plus one extra on each side (clockwise - ie all the needles at the back) into hold position.
12. Put the heel spring on, and pull two needles nearest the yarn carrier into hold, knit 1 round
13. Pull two needles nearest the yarn carrier into hold, knit 1 round
14. Pull 1 needle nearest the yarn carrier into hold, knit 1 round.
15. Repeat step 14 until only 12 needles are left in work - you will need to pull down on the heel to ensure it knits off correctly.
16. Add heel weight. 
17. Put 1 needle nearest the yarn carrier back into work, and hold the latch open as you crank round to it. Knit 1 round.
18. Repeat step 17 until all heel needles are back in work. As you knit the last pass, replace the ribber driving pin and put all of the needles back into work, ensuring all latches on the cylinder are open.
19. Set the row counter to zero and crank for the foot (I use 48 rounds for a UK woman's size 7). For a ribbed sock, I worked 45 rounds 3x1 rib (foot is plain) then transferred the remaining ribber needles to plain and worked a further 3 rounds all plain - makes the grafting of the toe a bit easier.
20. On the last pass, stop at 9 o'clock and put all of the rear needles into hold.
21. Repeat steps 14 - 18, stopping at 9 o'clock on the last pass so that you can return all the held needles into work, ensuring the latches are open (ignore the part about the ribber). 
22. Stop the knitting at 3 o'clock. Leaving a length of yarn for grafting, tie on some waste yarn and pull it through the feeder. Knit at least 10 rounds
23. Repeat steps 2-22 for the second sock.

Notes:

I have my cylinder set to knit as tightly as possible with sock yarn - about 6 on the Imperia. Experiment and find out what works for you. 

If you have small feet width-wise, a plain sock will fit better. 

Cast on sock *

Get some knitting established with waste yarn. Change to leftover sock yarn. Knit 8 rounds, then transfer every other stitch to its neighbour. Knit a further 8 rounds. Pick up the cast on round and hang it on the respective needle. Knit until the sock yarn runs out, or about 20cm of plain knitting. Take off on waste yarn. Unravel the waste yarn and you're done. I didn't bother to cast off; it just curls naturally and has yet to come undone. 

Whoops...

Recently, a website that had lots of Bond patterns (taken from the defunct Bond list I think) went down, and I had a major scramble redirecting all the broken links to the wayback machine versions. Thought I'd got them all, but found a load more today. Next time I should just search the files in HTML source mode, far more efficient!

In the process I did unearth some more MK patterns, so it wasn't effort wasted. Also a link to a "Harry Potter" scarf pattern, that made claim to be machine knit, but gave no indication of needles to cast on or rows to knit. Shame on whoever posted that!

Anyway, if you haven't already found it, please check out the Machine Knitter's Treasure Chest. Lots of useful info and pattern links for machine knitters, and it's mostly ad free too!

Free pattern: Chunky adult hat in 2x2 rib

Machine: 9mm chunky machine
Yarn: Aran weight

Cast on 38L - 40R in 2x2 rib - knit zigzag row at T0/0, hang comb and weights
Set machine for circular and knit 1 row at T1
Cancel circular; Set tensions to 6/6, RC000
Knit 70 rows.
Transfer every other stitch to its neighbour and put the spare ones out of work (transferring all the ribber stitches to the main bed.
MT3 knit 1 row. Break yarn, leaving 3 times the width of the knitting for sewing up. Thread the yarn through the live stitches and take off machine. Draw up crown and put a few stitches in it. Sew side seam with mattress stitch, sewing from the other side for the last 6cm (for the brim).

For the midgauge version of this hat, click here

Free pattern: Sideways garter st fingerless mittens

These were inspired by various patterns I've seen on Ravelry, but these are made all from one piece, so there's only one seam to sew up at the end. The first thumb keeps all the garter st appearing to go in a vertical direction (see above), the alternate thumb angles it to run parallel along the thumb. Either will work! I haven't tested the second thumb yet, it's on my to do list.

Yarn: Oddments of DK
Needles: 4mm

Cast on 30 sts (could use provisional cast on here)
Knit 32 rows garter stitch (k every row) until the knitting covers the back of the hand

Thumb
R33: Knit 20 sts, turn
R34: Knit 16sts, wrap and turn
R35: K16, turn
R36: Knit 12 sts, wrap and turn
R37: K12, turn
R38: Knit 8 sts, wrap and turn
R39: K8, turn
R40: Knit 4 sts, wrap and turn
R41: K4, turn
R42: Knit 8 sts, wrap and turn
R43: K8, turn
Rep rows 42 and  43, adding 4 more stitches until 20 sts have been knitted

Next row: Knit across all 30 sts
Next row: Knit 32 rows garter stitch (or however many you knitted for the first half of the hand).

Cast off and sew side seam. Make 2 the same.

Alternate thumb
R33: K20 sts, turn
R34: K4, wrap and turn
R35: K4, turn
R36: K8, wrap and turn
R37: K8, turn
R38: K12, wrap and turn
R39: K12, turn
R40: K16, wrap and turn
R41: K16, turn
R42: K20, turn
R43: K20, turn
R44: as R40
R45: as R41
R46: as R38
R47: as R39
R48: as R36
R49: as R37
R50: as R34
R51: as R35
R52: Knit 20 sts (to end)
R53: Knit across all 30 sts.

Free pattern: Sideways MK fingerless gloves

Machine: std 4.5mm gauge machine
Yarn: Any oddments of sock yarn 3-4ply
Tension: 5

Make 2 alike

1. Cast on with waste yarn over 52 sts, knit a few rows and end with carriage on right. 
2. K 1 row ravel cord RC000
3. With main yarn and T5, K 38 rows. Set carriage to HOLD - carriage should be on left
4. Put needles 5R to 26R into Hold
5. K1 row (COR)
6. Put 5 Ns opposite carr into hold, K1 row
7. Put 1 N nearest carr into hold, K1 row
8. Rep rows 6 and 7 until only 6 sts left in work in the middle of the bed (RC47)
9. Put all needles from 26L to 4R into UWP and K 6 rows (RC53)
10. Put all thumb needles back into hold except middle 7, K 1 row
11. Put 1N nearest carr into hold, K1 row
12. Put 7 Ns to UWP, K 1 row
13. Rep rows 11 and 12 until all thumb stitches (26L - 4R) back in work. Break yarn.
14. Put all Ns into HOLD, and pass the carriage to the right (free pass) COR (RC63)
15. Put all needles from 5R to 26R into UWP and knit 8 rows (RC71)
16. Cancel HOLD, K38 rows on all needles (RC109)

Break yarn, leaving a tail 4 x the width of the knitting, and scrap off on waste yarn. Graft the cast on and cast off edges together and weave in ends.

Notes:

• You might subtract multiples of 2 rows at (15) if you find the finger part too loose. I tried leaving them out altogether and felt it made the thumb hole a bit too tight - only advantage being you don't have to break the yarn
• I added a row of dc, a row of tr and some 5tr, 1dc shells to mine; you could add rib before grafting instead to counteract the natural curl of stocking stitch. 
• If you don't fancy grafting, cast on with e-wrap instead, knit the last row @ T10 and latch off instead. You'll have a seam down the outside of the hand. 

Free pattern: Ribbed midgauge hat for adult

Machine: Midgauge
Tension: 5
Yarn: DK

CO 104 stitches in 2x2 rib*, and knit 70 rows. Add more rows here if you prefer a taller hat, this is enough to fit the head quite closely.
*Reduce tension by 1 dot, knit 2 rows. Repeat from * to R82
Transfer every stitch to its neighbour, and knit 1 row.
Break yarn leaving a long length and run through the live stitches. Draw up and sew the side seam, working from the opposite side for the last 3" (for the turn-up).

These two hats are slightly shorter, as I was determined to get two hats out of the yarn I had available. It was a 100g ball of King Cole Flash. I had thought the Cog and I could sport matching hats, but he does not have the head for short hats, he looks ridiculous in them.

*Knit 1 zigzag row, and 1 circular row only, before going into main rib. This produces a nicer selvedge.

For a chunky version of this hat, click here

Free pattern: Crochet mesh string bag

The bag looks quite small, I will take another shot of it loaded. Don't make the bag too long as it has lots of stretch.

Yarn: I used a DK cotton
Hook: 4mm
Terms: UK crochet terms

Base

Ch 6, slip st to first chain to make a loop.
Round 1: Ch 3, work 15 tr into the ch loop, sl st to close the circle
Round 2: Ch 4, work 1tr, 1ch into every treble, sl st to the 3rd ch in the starting chain to close
Round 3: Ch 3, work 2tr into every ch space, 1ch,  sl st to the 3rd ch in the starting chain to close
Round 4: Ch4, *work 1tr into next 2 tr, 1tr into ch space, ch1, rep from * to end, sl st to the 3rd ch in the starting chain to close
Round 5: Ch4, *work 1tr into next 3 tr, 1tr into ch space, ch1, rep from * to end, sl st to the 3rd ch in the starting chain to close

**Add more rounds here if you wish to increase the overall diameter of the bag

Mesh pattern

Round 6: Ch1, *1dc in the central gap betweeen the 4trs, 5 ch, 1 dc into ch space, 5 ch, rep from * to last space, end with 2 ch and 1tr around previous turning chain.
Round 7: Ch 1, 1 dc around 1tr just made, 5 ch, * 1 dc into the next 5 ch, 5ch, rep from * to last space, end with 2ch and 1tr into turning chain of previous round.

Repeat round 7 until bag is required depth (I worked 26 rounds in total, starting with round 6)

Next round: 3ch, work 3 tr into next 5 ch space, repeat until last space, end with 2tr and sl st to close round
Next round: 3ch, work 1 tr into each tr, sl st to close round
Rep last round once more.

Handles

Count the trebles and divide by six.

Next round: 3ch, work one sixth of the trebles. Work a further sixth of the trebles as foundation trebles, thus creating a slot, working the first one into the same space as the last one. When working the last one, pick up both the base chain of the previous tr and the top of where you want the handle to join back in (I used 2 sixths from start). Work a further 2 sixths of trebles and repeat for other handle. Work trs to end, sl st in turning chain to close.
Next round: 3ch, work a round of tr, sl st to join
Rep last round once more.

Break yarn and weave in ends. 

Free pattern: CSM sock for 72 cylinder

This is actually based on this pattern, but I found mine came out way too long.

Before starting this sock, I adjusted my CSM so it was as tight as it would knit without tucking or dropping stitches. Socks last longer if they are knitted firmly! So experiment with your machine. My machine (an Imperia) has the main cylinder at 6 and the ribber at 3.

Suggested yarns: Opal Sock, Regia Sock, King Cole Zigzag

1. Cast on every needle with the main cylinder using a set-up bonnet or your preferred set up method, and knit a few rows in waste yarn, ensuring your knitting is weighted
2. Engage the ribber and transfer every other needle to the ribber, knit a few more rows
3. Stop the CSM at the right hand hash mark
4. Tie on the main yarn, pull it through the mast and down through the yarn carrier.
5. Holding the knot, carefully crank forward about a quarter turn (you can use the heel spring here for a tighter selvedge if required)
6. Using a latch hook, pull the loop of the yarn join through the gap between the cylinder and ribber
7. Slowly complete one round with the ribber, stopping just before the ribber needle at 3 o'clock moves out. 
8. Put the ribber out of work (slip mode) and crank two rows, stopping just before 3 o'clock as before
9. Set the row counter to zero, remove the heel spring if you used it, put the ribber back into work so that the ribbing recommences at 3 o'clock. 
10. Knit the required amount of ribbing (I knit 20)
11. Transfer all the ribber stitches back to the main cylinder and knit the ankle rounds (I knit 30)
12. Stop with the yarn carrier in the front, and use the half-circle tool to pull all the rear needles between the two hash marks all the way up (make sure your cylinder spring has been replaced before attempting this!)
13. Add the heel spring and crank to the right.
14. Pull up two needles on the right and crank to the left
15. Pull up two needles on the left and crank to the right
16. Pull up one needle on the right and crank to the left
17. Pull up one needle on the left and crank to the right
18. Repeat 16 and 17 until there are only 14 needles left in work (you will have to pull down on the heel with your free hand whilst short-rowing)
19. Insert the heel hook about 4 rows from the live stitches and weight it
20. Push the needle nearest the yarn carrier back into work and hold the latch open with your finger tip, crank around
21. Repeat row 20 until you have reached the last of the pair of needles that were wrapped together in (14)
22. Return the rest of the needles to work, making sure all latches are open. Remove the heel spring. 
23. Crank to the right hand hash mark and set the row counter to zero
24. Crank number of rows required for the foot. I do 48 for a medium women's sock (UK size 7) and 52 for a medium man's sock (UK size 9)
25. Repeat steps 12-21, but this time short-row back out so that ALL needles to the front of the hash marks have been knitted. Stop at the right hash mark.
26. Break yarn and tie on waste yarn, pulling it through the yarn carrier.
27. Knit a few rounds of waste yarn. 

Repeat the process from step 2 for the second sock. 

Free pattern: Innocent smoothie hats

These are hats for Innocent Smoothies - a donation is made to AgeUK for a drink with one of these on top. 



Machine: standard gauge, oddments of 3 or 4ply yarn
Cast on 36 sts in 1x1 rib, knit 4 rows rib MT4
Transfer to main bed. Knit a further 20 rows MT6
Transfer every other needle, knit 1 row MT4
Break yarn and thread through live stitches. Put a few stitches in the crown, then sew side seam and weave in ends.