Machine knitting can be quite daunting to the uninitiated, and it can give us "old hands" a run for our money at times too. I thought it was high time I wrote a post for those thinking about dipping their toes into this most interesting of crafts.
Introduction
Most knitting machines ceased manufacture in the 1980s and 90s, with the exception of Silver, Creative and Artisan brands, but that does mean you can pick up something second hand of decent quality on Ebay or Facebook. Buyer beware: very vintage machines (before 1970) can be hard to get spares for. Anything from the 80s onwards is a good bet, and Brother were the most prolific sellers in the UK. Useful reading about on buying a second hand machine. Try and buy the machine in person if possible (and ask to see it working is even better). They don't travel well in the post, and unfortunately not everyone online can be trusted to sell you a working machine. Your local guild or club (if you have one) are often excellent sources of preloved machines.
Choosing your machine
Buy the machine for the yarn you most wish to use, and don't try forcing too-thick yarn through a machine - you'll only end up frustrated, and possibly damage plenty of needles in the process. In this case, the machines are approximately grouped as follows (ideal is knitting plain stocking stitch):
- Fine gauge - 3.6mm pitch, up to a 4ply (ideal yarn is 3ply weight)
- Standard gauge - 4.5/5mm pitch, up to a light DK (ideal yarn is 4ply weight)
- Midgauge - 6-7mm pitch, up to aran (ideal yarn is DK weight)
- Chunky gauge - 9-11mm pitch, up to chunky (ideal yarn is aran weight)
Machine maintenance
It's a common misperception that any machine that was stored in working condition many years ago, should continue to work right out of the box. Piffle - you wouldn't expect a car to work if it had been standing idle for over a year! The main culprit for many new users is a flat sponge bar aka needle retainer bar - this is a sneaky piece of foam, usually mounted on a metal strip, which is designed to keep the needles down against the bed. Once they start to ride up, you'll have trouble knitting anything. Take a look at the end of your needle bed, and you'll often see a plastic tab sticking out - this is the end of your needle retainer bar. Its main use is to hold the needles down, and its secondary use is to slide out to allow you to replace any damaged needles. So before commencing any knitting, check if the sponge is still doing its job. Foam has a tendency to perish. Expect to have to replace a bar on a machine that hasn't been used in a while. You can still buy them online - I like the covered ones sold by Smartco, but any machine knitting shop should sell something that will work. Despite their cheapness, I don't favour "refurbishment" kits (where you just get a strip of foam and some glue), especially for beginners - the foam tends not to be stiff enough, and anyway if you are just starting, you don't know what you're aiming for. So always buy a complete bar if possible. Note to Passap owners: You do not have a sponge bar, more a needle retaining bar (thin metal rod) and a needle retainer spring, which is very easily damaged.
Whilst we're on the subject of maintenance, it's worth vacuuming the needle bed slots and carefully brushing the underside of the carriage to remove any fluff and dust bunnies. Then a few drops of oil on any pivot points will help no end. Most of the cams on the carriage should move symmetrically in pairs, so check to see if any aren't behaving. Occasionally springs can pop off, or a slightly deeper clean is required. If disassembly is required, look up the comprehensive "Ask Jack" videos on Youtube.
Let's start knitting already...
It's worth not running before you can walk - start by knitting something fairly simple, such as a hat, using just the main bed. This gets you learning about casting on, decreasing, and casting off. You can learn about mock ribbed hems, picot hems, different cast ons, cast offs, increasing etc. When you've mastered the basics, you can start playing with the patterning / punchcards and the various pattern settings (tuck, slip, lace, fairisle etc). When you are confident with those, it's time to add the ribber and try a few of the different ribs. The manuals are pretty good in this case, and if you didn't get a manual with your machine, most can be found here in PDF format. If you can curb your enthusiasm, it's worth working a small swatch of all the methods in the manual, and maybe keeping them in a file - it'll be time well spent.
Mistakes, mistakes...
I often tell my handknitting friends, that knitting machines just allow us to go wrong a LOT faster, and that's true whether you've been using them for ten years or ten minutes. If the yarn's not quite where it should be in the carriage, the whole lot is on your feet in less than a second. Take heart, dear knitter - we've all been there! It's worth learning how to "tink" back a stitch at a time - it's a kind of zigzag movement that you'll get quite good at after a few goes. Misery loves company - there's a thriving machine knitting community on Ravelry, and many machine knitting groups on Facebook, so take a look and find your kindred online. You'll often find that something that has you stumped has happened to somebody else, and they'll know how to get you out of it.
And finally...
Remember, any new skill takes time and patience to grasp, so don't throw in the towel too early. We all had to start somewhere, and once mastered, machine knitting is an absorbing and creative craft. If nothing else, it teaches persistance - I'm determined to master my machines. It comes with lots of cool gadgets, and at the end of it, you (hopefully) get a sweater! How cool is that?
Further reading:
Want to learn machine knitting?
Beginner course - main bed techniques
Beginner course - ribber techniques










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